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Posts tagged Gunpla
WiP: 1:48 RX-78-2 Gunpla Model

Another day, another Gundam. This time the iconic Red-White-Blue-Yellow RX-78-2 (why doesn't it have a name that's easy to remember like the Zaku?) also in 1:48 Mega Scale. I get asked a lot why 1:48 scale and it's because it's closer to scale with my other figures (I mostly have Warhammer sized figures which are 28mm and close o 1:48 scale). At this point, my RX is about 1/2 way done. I'm waiting on decals to arrive from China and then I have to hand paint the rest of the details and panel line the white before I even get to weather.

I wanted to all out and weather this RX and make it look like a veteran unit rather than factory new. I picked up Ammo of MiG's Mechas painting sets along with their Painting Mechas book. If you've ever wondered how to weather your Gundam, these kits and books are the way to go. The techniques in this book are way more realistic looking than just rubbing Tamiya powders on your kit (no hate for Tamiya, I own a lot of their products, but A.MIG is the way to go with battle damage and weathering!). Here are the products I have and a link to them: Mechas and Robot Colors, Chipping Set for Mechas, Weathering Set for Mechas, and the In Combat, Painting Mechas book. I ordered these all from Last Calvary Hobbies. I made a mistake with my order and got the wrong color of primer, but their customer service sorted it 10 minutes after I emailed them and they shipped out my order the same day. I got everything two days later.

I already have the entire Minitaire and Vallejo Game Air range of paints along with about 100 other colors from various brands, but I picked up the Mechas and Robot Colors from Ammo of MIG anyways. I always find I have to thin my Vallejo Game Air paints (which are designed for airbrush also), but the A.MiG paints are a perfect consistency and flow very smoothly through the airbrush. The Greys and White are thinner than most other brands paints, but I prefer this because I can apply very thin layers so slowly build up the color I want.

I did color modulation on all of the parts. Shame that most of this will not even be visible when the model is weathered and damaged - the effect will be even more subtle in the finished mech. I used the A.MiG colors and the base colors and highlighted and shaded with colors from other brands. The Yellow was the color I was the most worried about and it was shaded with an Orange-Brown mix and highlighted with an Ivory-White color.

I'm always impressed with the engineering that goes into the Gundam figures and their final cost. The Mega Size models sell at my local store (Fit Japanese Store in Austin, Tx - there is a Houston location too) for $88 plus tax. With over a hundred parts and standing over 15 inches tall, it's a much better deal than the $115 plus tax I spent on a Warhammer 40,000 Khorne Bloodthirster who only comes up to the RX's knees and is about as big as the RX's thighs.

Scale image of where the Gundam is now. As soon as the decals arrive I can get everything finished up. I've already done some weathering on the feet and I'm happy with how it turned out so far. I will be making some touch ups, but the A.MiG products are a dream to work with.

Viet NguyenWiP, Gunpla, RX-78-2Comment
Texas Gundam Club GRAND PRIX 2015 Show Recap

I went to my first Gunpla competition last Sunday (September 6th). I had plans to visit my family for Labor Day weekend and saw this contest on Texas Gundam Club's Facebook page.  Previously I had only painted a few Gundam before (an Age 2 Normal, another one that was also, red, white, blue, and yellow but without wings, and a few Beargguys) but those had only been evening projects. For this one I had one free weekend two weeks out. I knew I wanted to incorporate the Contractor figures from Dust as pilots so I went with 1:48 Scale. There weren't too many models available in Mega Scale, but in the end I went to a Zaku II because of the shoulder plate that would allow the figures to sit. Here are just some of the awesome entries that were at the show.

Photo Credit: Cody Spicer and Jittra Tungcmittrong

First up is the hands down, Best of Show (I won Best Large Scale) a Sazabi by Matt Mrozek. Apparently this is a third-part kit, not an official by Bandai. It's an all resin model that stands even taller than my Mega Scale Zaku even though it's only 1:60 scale. Matt put in over 400 hours of work in this masterpiece.

Bill Kohr won Best Small Scale with this Gundam. I'm not sure what it's called, but I'll learn all the names eventually! Very clean paintjob and decal work and the gem in the chest-piece looks really cool.

Tolan Nguyen did this winged mecha with really cool LEDS on the wings.

I don't know who painted this one, but I really like the Navy and Gold color scheme.

This was painted by my friend Steven Duong and won a Judges Prize. 

And finally a pink Gundam (something I will have to try in the future).

Being in the back of a store, the display area was small, but there is another table that was added after this picture was taken. In the end, I think there were over 20 entries for the contest. I haven't competed in a show since 2013 so it was nice to come out again. Next week will be IPMS Fort Worth's SuperCon which when the last time I went had over 300 entries.

Congratulations to everyone that won, hopefully I will get the chance to compete with everyone in the future.






How to: Color Modulation | Gundam Zaku II Mega Scale

First post on this new blog. I've recently gotten a lot of requests to do a Color Modulation tutorial for Gundam so here we go. You can purchase a lot of DVDs and books that cover this technique, but I have neither the time nor skill to make either of those so this article is free - just leave a comment if you liked it or if you have any questions. So first, what is Color Modulation? Color Modulation is a relatively new technique that's all the craze with military modelers. It basically takes the zenethal highlighting technique a step further to pull more contrasts on the model and make the base color more interesting.

Color Modulation is an exaggerated base color with more highlights and shadows that will serve as a base for the weathering. Color Modulation is sort  of a controversial technique. Some say it's brilliant, others say its unrealistic or fantasy. I was talking to my brother about this technique and he likened it to a video game model with unreal lighting. So the question is Color Modulation realistic? Well... no it's not. It's just an interpretation of light. Color Modulation brings contrasts between the different sections of the color - sort of like how panel lining and pre-shading are also used to distinguish areas and make them more interesting to the viewer. Technically, Color Modulation should be done from a zenithal light source, but remember that the model is not static so as soon as your repose it, all the shadows will be wrong! Luckily modellers before me have compensated by applying the light source to individual panels and sections.

Finally, just remember that Color Modulation is just another technique that you can use on your model. I do not use it all the time, sometimes I do Edge Highlighting, sometimes it's Drybrushing. Remember it's your model and you can do what you want because if you really want realism in your model, it is actually very disappointing. Stand 20 feet away from a tank and you won't even be able to see individual panels much less the actual rivets which painters bring our by panel lining and washing. I like to think about miniature painting as an art. Historical oil paintings at the museum are beautiful but they aren't realistic compared to a photograph. If you want true realism, just paint your model in a solid color and spend a lot of money on lights to mimic the sun (but that would defeat the whole purpose of painting since that is just photography!). Enough about the theory, let's get started!

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If you are looking for a quick introduction to Colo Modulation, I would recommend the AFV Painting System sets by Vallejo. I've linked to the Olive Green one which I used as a base for this set (meaning I modified the recipe). When doing color modulation, firstly pick the base color you want the model to primarily consist of. Then choose 2 shades darker and 2 shades lighter. If you really want a natural fade, you should mix your colors like I did. I primed the Zaku's chest with Vallejo Olive Green Primer, although the primer color does matter (I ran out of this so most of the pieces were just primed grey). The first step is to pre-shade the model. This should be done with the darkest shade. Usually I would not use Black, but for Olive Green, it's okay. My favorite color of Black for airbrushing is Woodland Scenics Black. It's a very thin paint that is just perfect for airbrushing right of the bottle. It's also a very light paint so it's forgiving and fades well. You may have to do two passes of this color. As you can see, I was not very neat, you just needs to outline the panels for the next step.

The next step is to take the shadow color and blend it into the pre-shade color. Remember you can go back and forth if you accidentally cover too much. At this point, you should also decide your rules for your light. On this model, it is vertical (top down) and front to rear. This will be more apparent when we get to the highlights.

Next, we are applying the base color. This is the most dominant color on the model. As you can see we've faded it with the shadow color that in turn transitions to the pre-shade color. You can also see that the shadow comes from the bottom of the panel line. Remember to have masking tape on hand when doing this technique!

Here we have the first highlight applied top down. This is a lighter version of the base color. In my case, I did some mixing because I couldn't fine a factory color I wanted. I added some Light Grey and Buff/Ivory to the base color. Again, use masking tape to prevent the color from touching the shadows on the panel above. Masking tape allows you to get that crisp line that brings the most contrast.

Here is the peice with the final highlight applied to only the very top of the panel. I mixed my previous highlight with more light tones to get the color I wanted.

Here is the chest piece outside of the lightbox so you can see the contrast a little bit more. That was a lot of work, but the magic hasn't happened yet.

As you might notice the color after the modulation is very saturated so we will want to bring some life back in the color. To do this, I used a Filter of Green to bring the tones back to where I wanted it. This is the most difficult process in modulation as it requires more finesse and patience. In my case, I used Vallejo's Dark Green wash mixed with airbrush thinner, water, and acrylic medium. There is not a set ratio, you will have to play with the ingredients to get the consistency that works for you. I would start with a 50:50 mix of the Wash and everything else. This is applied with a flat brush. It is important to do this directionally or else it will look like smears. I followed the direction of the Color Modulation (top, down, or front, back). If done correctly, the subtle effect will blend the colors together and leave a light rain streak effect.

Here is a close up of the foot that helps show the streaking more. This is another way to add interest to the colors without going overboard with the weathering. A thing to remember is that you should do each panel individually so your streaks don't run across different sections. Also I didn't take a picture, but I Panel Lined the Green with Black before the filter was added.

I forgot to take a picture while doing it with the green, but for the extreme highlight color, I wanted to bring attention to individual hatches so I masked them off and highlighted them.

Here are the Khaki parts with Color Modulation and Panel Lining. It's more of a matter of preference, but I did apply a Satin Varnish coat between the Color Modulation and the Panel Lining and again before the Filter. I used a Medium Brown wash.

Here are the Khaki Parts wit the Filter applied. In this case I've opted for a Sephia colored wash.

And there you have it, the basics of Color Modulation. If you liked this article, please let me know in the comments! If I wasn't clear on my explanation of certain steps, ask me below. Thank you for reading.